Day 22-26: Salkantay Trail and Machupicchu!

Day 1 trekking:

The first day of our trek began at 6am when the company picked us up from our hostel. We were greeted by people coming into the hostel from a big night out on Halloween (men dressed as women and whatnot) smelling of booze. In the van we said good morning to our guide, the cook Martín, and the Dutch couple, Gea and Martin. They drove us about 1.5 hours to a little village where we ate breakfast and then another 1.5 hours to the drop off point to begin trekking. The first day was fairly easy, only walking for about 2 hours. We reached our camping spot for the night, where we set up the tents and had lunch. Every meal we ate was massive, including soup, some sort of meat, vegetables, rice or pasta, and potatos. After lunch we relaxed and then had another big meal before sunset. Our campsite had an amazing view of Salkantay mountain, the one which we were going to tackle the following day. We layed down for sleep that night, struggling to keep the tent warm. I must say that was the coldest night of my life.



Day 2 trekking:

Martin woke us up at 5am with a warm cup of amazing tea. What a saving grace on a freezing cold morning. Day two is the longest and hardest day of the 5 day trek, climbing over 800 meters to a peak at 4,600 meters. After breakfast we began the 8.5 hour walk up Salkantay mountain. Dana was feeling a bit sick again this day, so it was an extra challenge in the altitude. After about 3 hours ascending, we reached the top of the mountain. The wind was howling and the ground had snow patches here and there. We could see the glaciers on the peaks surrounding us as we were filled with a great feeling of accomplishment. At the top, Incans used to stack rocks as an offering to the mountain gods, so today people carry on the tradition. The view was absolutely incredible. We continued on down the mountain, descending for another 2 hours. The terrain changed as we went on from rocks and snow to occasional flat green fields. The cook passed us along the hike with 4 mules and a mule-porter to set up lunch for us. By the time we reached our lunch camping site, there was hot tea and garlic bread waiting for our arrival.

The day was not over after lunch. We descended for another 3 hours, which was really tough on our ankles and feet. As we descended another couple hundred meters into a cloud forest the air became a bit warmer. Climbing down the mountain proved to be pretty tough. The trail itself was very rocky and we were glad we´d chosen the shoes with the extra ankle support. It felt like we´d never get there, working on hour 7 of our long day. We reached our campsite for the night at about 4:30 in the afternoon. Right as we were putting our things in tents, it began to downpour, and we were grateful we didn´t get caught in the rain. Dinner was great as usual, although Dana had trouble eating that day. Martin made Dana a cup of magical tea (boiled celery and lemon) that settled her stomach. It surprisingly worked and she also started taking some antibiotics for the bad water she ingested and few days before. Night two was a lot warmer, which meant a much better night of sleep.

Day 3 trekking:

We woke up on the third day with sore legs in a little village to another cup of Martin´s wonderful morning tea. We began our 6 hour hike at 7 am and Dana was very grateful to be feeling a lot better. (Magic peruvian tea worked!) The hike was primarily downhill putting a lot of pressure on our ankles and feet. Within the first 5 minutes of the walk, we had to walk across a terrifying landslide. Seriously, it was crumbling as we crossed. Let´s just say we were really excited to have made it across in one piece. (We were scared shitless.) As we descended the climate changed, getting warmer and more humid. Of course it rained for about two hours when we go into the rainforest area. Through the rainforest our guide, Felix or Gato (cat), kept pointing out the different wild flowers and fruits along the trail. He showed us a large green bush looking plant that was actually used by the Inca, and the indigenous people still today, to relieve headaches and joint pain, especially in the knee. We also saw wild orchids, papaya trees, coffee bushes, pecan trees, and lots of pretty hummingbirds. We had to cross many different rivers and streams over bridges that were made of reeds and wood. After 6 hours of hiking we made it to our lunch destination that was swarming with the terrible flies we´d heard about. We saw backpackers with more than a hundred red sores on each leg from the little things. We had the option to stay in the noisey, fly infested area or to take a short bus ride down to a hot springs...we chose the hot spring. The hot springs was an amazing little resort type place that was recently built within the last couple of years. Although there were still flies, we didn´t mind them as much as we relaxed our sore muscles and feet in rock bottom pool that was the spring. After a well deserved two hour bath in the natural pool, we had dinner as always with the Dutch couple and Felix and it was amazing as always. The Dutch couple were actually great to trek with because they were really funny had plenty of energy. Everynight before we tucked into our now homey tent, we sat around after dinner sharing stories and each other´s company.


Day 4:

Needless to say it was hard to leave this wonderful little hot spring early in the morning. We took a bus back up to our jump off point and began our trek through rocky mountain side. My ankle was killing me from the day before but I took some Ibuprofen and contiuned on. It was a much quicker walk to our lunch spot-the hydroelectric station that they are so proud of- only two and half hours. This was our last lunch with Martín. He really worked harder than everyone else we felt like, so we bought him and our selves some ice cream. After lunch we had the option to take the train or hike another two and a half hours along side the train tracks to Aguas Calientes, the base camp for Machupicchu. Since my ankle was still sore with no signs of getting better, Dana and I decided if the train was an option, we´d take it. Well to make a long story short: there were no tickets available for the train, so we decided to walk it but since it was my boots that were killing me I changed into my sandals, it started to rain, my sandal broke, and two and half hours later Dana and Allison roll into Aguas Calientes soaked to the bone, Allison with one shoe on and one shoe in hand.

You might be surprised that despite all this we were actually in a very funny mood and laughed about the whole thing alot. Dinner was at a cute little resturant in Aguas Calientes where we all kind of celebrated with a beer or a glass of wine. We all had to be in bed early though because we had to wake up early the next morning (4AM!) to get on one of the first buses to Machupicchu and insure our tickets to Huayapicchu. (They only allow 400 people a day up on Huayapicchu.)

Day 5 We made it! Machupicchu!:

We´ll skip the part about waiting in lines for an hour to get on the bus at 4:30 in the morning. The early morning mist was just lifting off the tops of the mountains as we walked into site. They keep it very well groomed and clean there; you can´t bring in any food or disposable water bottles. Felix allowed us to take all the pictures we could stand before beginning his tour. We began by getting in a circle and holding hands (the circle represents the earth and sun and continuity of all living things) and taking a moment to appreciate where we were and what this beautiful place means. Felix is actually indigenous himself and as such a descendant of the Inca
so this tour was very special to him, you could tell. The tour lasted about 3 hours and we walked all over the site, except in the middle because the site itself is apparently sinking. The mechanics and thought that went into the physical aspect of this sacred city is incredibly impressive. Obviously much as been restored, but there are many original walls whose architechture is astounding compared to the later restored walls. The rooms and different temples all have there special purposes. Machupicchu itself was a place for the elite, the religous leaders, and for the girls that were to be sacraficed. (Being sacraficed was an honor in which you prepared for your whole life.) As you look around yourself as you stand at Machupicchu, all you can see is the surrounding mountains covered in a thick, green forest. The Inca chose to build their sacred city in this exact spot for a couple of different reasons: there was a spring in which they could irrigate their fields and bring clean water down to the city with, and the mountain range surrounding it looks like a face turned up (mother earth) and of course Inca lore.

After a quick snack, it was time for the famous hike up Waymapicchu. Its 800 steps straight up. There are some places that are so steep you have to use your hands to help crawl up. - On a side note, this part of the tour would definitely be closed off anywhere else in the world. There are several places that are just plain scary and dangerous becaue you climb up stairs that are narrower than your foot is wide and is right alongside the edge of the mountain that you could definitely fall off of in one slip.- No worries though, we made it up that day and back down and to our knowlegde no one fell off...while we were there. The climb is hard and we had to take a couple of breaks and just when you think you can´t go higher the stairs continue on. Finally you crawl through a cave and when you come out the other side you are standing on the top with a panoramic view of Machupicchu and everything else. We were told by several guides and people who have done the trek before that you feel something very special and unique when you reach the top. Its absolutely true. Dana and I agreed that we felt a strong sense of being ¨home¨ or the feeling of being part of something bigger, universal. There was also this overpowering feeling of love- love for the environment that is so important everyday, love for yourself for actually getting your butt up that dangerous staircase after days of previous hiking, and more than anything love for the people who helped get you up there -everyone at home, reading this blog supporting us.

It was a long and even scarier hike back down the mountain but we made it. From there is was all downhill. Down from Machupicchu on the bus, then the train, and eventually the car back to Cusco where we find ourselves again. We are currently resting, sort of, and preparing for the next step.

(Dana and Allison both worked on this particular post so if there are any discrepancies with the I´s and names it was Dana who got sick on day 2 and Allison with the hurt ankle. Also we are both terrible spellers and apologize for any words not spelled correctly. It took a while to sum up our thoughts and then type them out. Enjoy!)